Rope Fish

The Rope Fish is the aquarium hobby's most notorious escape artist — they can squeeze through gaps smaller than a pencil, push up loose lids, and survive on land for hours thanks to primitive lungs that let them breathe air. This 250-million-year-old living fossil from West Africa belongs to the ancient Polypteridae family alongside bichirs, with an elongated snake-like body reaching 12–16 inches. They crawl along the bottom using pectoral fins rather than swimming, hunt by smell rather than sight, and live 15–20 years. A tight-fitting lid with zero gaps is non-negotiable — experienced keepers who skip this step always learn the hard way.

Natural Habitat and Distribution

The Rope Fish is native to the freshwater river systems and floodplains of West Africa, with their range extending from Nigeria through Cameroon and into the Congo River basin. They inhabit slow-moving rivers, swamps, marshes, and flooded areas where oxygen levels in the water are often quite low. These ancient fish have adapted over millions of years to survive in these challenging environments, developing specialized respiratory organs that allow them to gulp air at the surface when dissolved oxygen becomes scarce.

During the rainy season, rope fish take advantage of flooded areas to expand their territory and search for food. The seasonal flooding creates temporary waterways that connect different bodies of water, allowing these remarkable fish to travel surprising distances across land. Their ability to survive out of water for extended periods, provided their skin remains moist, has made them incredibly successful survivors in their native range. This same adaptation, however, makes them notorious escape artists in aquarium settings.

The water in their natural habitat is typically warm, soft to moderately hard, and slightly acidic to neutral in pH. Substrates consist of muddy bottoms with abundant leaf litter, submerged roots, and fallen branches that provide shelter and hunting grounds. The dense vegetation along riverbanks offers additional cover and supports the insect larvae, small fish, and crustaceans that form the bulk of their diet in the wild.

Physical Characteristics and Anatomy

Rope fish possess one of the most distinctive body plans in the aquarium hobby, with an elongated, cylindrical form that can reach lengths of 12 to 16 inches in adulthood. Their body is covered in thick, armored scales that provide protection and give them their characteristic rope-like texture. The dorsal fin consists of a series of small, individual finlets that run nearly the entire length of the back, creating the appearance of a continuous fin that aids in their snake-like undulating movement.

Unlike most fish, rope fish have relatively poor eyesight and rely primarily on their highly developed sense of smell to locate prey and navigate their environment. Their nostrils are prominent and constantly flicking, sampling the water for chemical cues that indicate the presence of food or potential threats. The mouth is positioned on the underside of the head, allowing them to easily pick food items from the substrate while their body remains close to the bottom.

Perhaps the most fascinating anatomical feature of rope fish is their modified swim bladder, which functions as a primitive lung. This adaptation allows them to breathe atmospheric oxygen directly, making them facultative air-breathers that can survive in oxygen-depleted waters that would be fatal to most other fish species. The ability to breathe air comes with a requirement for regular trips to the water surface, which is why adequate swimming space and an unobstructed path to the top of the tank are essential for their wellbeing.

Tank Setup and Aquarium Requirements

Providing an appropriate home for rope fish requires careful planning and attention to their specific needs. The minimum tank size for a single adult rope fish is 55 gallons, though 75 gallons or larger is strongly recommended to provide adequate swimming and crawling space. These active fish need length more than height, so a long, low tank configuration is preferable to a tall, narrow one. The extra space also helps reduce stress and encourages more natural behaviors.

Substrate selection is particularly important for rope fish, as they spend the majority of their time crawling along the bottom rather than swimming in the water column. Soft sand is ideal, as it allows them to burrow partially and protects their delicate underbellies from abrasion during their characteristic slithering movement. Avoid sharp gravel or rough substrates that could damage their skin or scales during their constant bottom-dwelling activities.

Hiding spots are essential for rope fish to feel secure and display their most interesting behaviors. Provide numerous caves, driftwood pieces, PVC pipes, and rock formations that create dark retreats where they can rest during the day. Since they are nocturnal, having plenty of cover encourages them to venture out more confidently once the lights dim. Arrange decorations to create a complex landscape of tunnels and hiding places that mimics their natural riverbank habitat.

Perhaps the most critical aspect of rope fish tank setup is the lid. These fish are legendary escape artists with an uncanny ability to find and exploit even the tiniest gaps in aquarium covers.

A tight-fitting lid with no openings larger than a few millimeters is absolutely essential. Check that filters, heaters, and airline tubing enter the tank through properly sealed openings, and consider weighing down the lid with books or other heavy objects as an additional precaution. Many experienced keepers have learned this lesson the hard way after finding their rope fish dried out on the floor.

Water Parameters and Quality

Rope fish are relatively adaptable when it comes to water chemistry, but maintaining stable parameters within their preferred range is crucial for long-term health. The ideal temperature range is between 72 and 82 degrees Fahrenheit, with most keepers finding that keeping the temperature around 76 to 78 degrees provides the best balance of metabolic health and activity level. Use a reliable aquarium heater and thermometer to maintain consistent temperatures, as fluctuations can stress these sensitive fish.

The pH should be maintained between 6.5 and 7.5, which encompasses the slightly acidic to neutral conditions of their natural habitat. While they can tolerate brief excursions outside this range, prolonged exposure to overly acidic or alkaline conditions can lead to health problems and shortened lifespans. Water hardness should be kept soft to moderate, between 2 and 15 degrees general hardness, though they show considerable tolerance for harder water as long as other parameters remain stable.

Water quality must be maintained at high standards despite their ability to breathe air. Ammonia and nitrite levels should always remain at zero, as these compounds are toxic to all fish regardless of their respiratory adaptations. Nitrate levels should be kept below 30 parts per million through regular water changes and adequate biological filtration. Because rope fish are messy eaters and produce considerable waste, a robust filtration system rated for at least twice the tank volume is recommended.

Regular water changes of 25 to 30 percent weekly help maintain water quality and remove accumulated waste products. When performing water changes, take care not to disturb the substrate excessively, as rope fish may be startled by sudden changes in their environment. Always use a water conditioner to remove chlorine and chloramine from tap water, as these chemicals can damage their sensitive respiratory tissues.

Diet and Feeding Requirements

Rope fish are opportunistic carnivores with a voracious appetite and a particular fondness for meaty foods. In the wild, their diet consists primarily of small fish, insect larvae, crustaceans, worms, and any other animal matter they can capture and consume. In captivity, they readily accept a variety of foods, though their preference tends toward live and frozen options over dry prepared foods.

High-quality frozen foods should form the staple of their diet, with bloodworms, Mysis shrimp, krill, and silversides being particularly favored options. These foods provide the protein and nutrients necessary for maintaining their health and supporting their impressive longevity. Thaw frozen foods completely before feeding to prevent digestive issues, and vary the diet regularly to ensure they receive a full spectrum of nutrients.

Live foods such as earthworms, blackworms, and appropriately-sized feeder fish can be offered as occasional treats to stimulate their natural hunting behaviors. However, be cautious with feeder fish from pet stores, as these can introduce parasites and diseases into your aquarium. If feeding live fish, consider quarantining them first or breeding your own in a separate system to ensure they are healthy and parasite-free.

Some rope fish can be trained to accept high-quality carnivore pellets and sinking wafers, though this process requires patience and persistence. Pellets should be high in protein and specifically formulated for predatory fish. When attempting to convert them to prepared foods, try mixing pellets with their favorite frozen foods initially, gradually increasing the proportion of dry food over time.

Feeding should occur primarily in the evening when rope fish are most active and alert. Use feeding tongs or target feeding techniques to ensure each fish receives adequate nutrition, as they may have difficulty locating food in a dark tank. Adult rope fish should be fed three to four times per week, while growing juveniles may require daily feedings to support their rapid development. Avoid overfeeding, as obesity can lead to health problems and reduced lifespans in these long-lived fish.

Behavior and Social Dynamics

Rope fish display fascinating behaviors that set them apart from nearly all other aquarium inhabitants. Their most distinctive trait is their method of locomotion, which involves using their pectoral fins to crawl along the bottom in a manner reminiscent of underwater snakes. This crawling behavior allows them to explore every corner of their environment, investigate potential food sources, and navigate through complex mazes of decorations with surprising agility.

During daylight hours, rope fish typically remain hidden in their chosen retreats, becoming active only when the aquarium lights dim or when food is introduced. This nocturnal nature means that aquarists often miss their most interesting behaviors unless they observe the tank during evening hours. Some keepers install moonlighting or dim blue LEDs to allow for nighttime viewing without disturbing the fish’s natural activity patterns.

Despite their predatory nature, rope fish are generally peaceful toward fish that are too large to be considered prey. They do not actively hunt healthy fish of appropriate size, preferring to scavenge and search for smaller food items. However, any fish small enough to fit in their mouths is at risk, making tank mate selection critical for community setups. Neon tetras, guppies, and other small community fish will inevitably become expensive snacks.

When kept in groups, rope fish display interesting social behaviors, often sharing hiding spots and interacting with one another in ways that suggest complex social hierarchies. Multiple rope fish can be housed together successfully as long as the tank is large enough to provide adequate space and hiding spots for all individuals. Interestingly, they often seem more confident and display more natural behaviors when kept with conspecifics, making group keeping a rewarding option for those with sufficient tank space.

Tank Mate Compatibility

Selecting appropriate tank mates for rope fish requires careful consideration of both the rope fish’s predatory nature and the potential for aggression from other species. The primary rule is simple but non-negotiable: any fish that can fit in a rope fish’s mouth will eventually be eaten. This eliminates most popular community fish, including tetras, rasboras, danios, livebearers, and small catfish.

Ideal tank mates are large, peaceful fish that are neither small enough to be eaten nor aggressive enough to harass the rope fish. Large peaceful cichlids such as Severums, Geophagus, and Blood Parrot Cichlids can work well, as can large gouramis like the Giant Gourami or thick-lipped varieties. Large catfish such as Raphael cats, Pictus cats (if similar in size), and certain Synodontis species are also generally compatible, though care must be taken to ensure the catfish are not small enough to become prey.

Other primitive fish make excellent companions for rope fish, sharing similar care requirements and generally ignoring one another. Bichirs of appropriate size are perhaps the most popular tank mates, as they share the rope fish’s ancient lineage, nocturnal habits, and air-breathing abilities. Multiple species of Polypterus can be kept alongside rope fish in large aquariums, creating a fascinating display of prehistoric aquatic life.

Fish to avoid include anything small enough to eat, aggressive cichlids like Oscars or Jack Dempseys that may bully or injure the slow-moving rope fish, and fin-nipping species that could damage their long dorsal fin. Fast-moving fish that might outcompete rope fish for food should also be avoided, as the rope fish’s poor eyesight puts them at a disadvantage during feeding time. Always monitor new additions carefully and be prepared to separate fish if aggression or predation becomes an issue.

Breeding Rope Fish

Breeding rope fish in captivity is an extremely rare occurrence, with only a handful of documented successes in home aquariums. The primary challenge lies in their reproductive biology, which involves complex courtship behaviors and environmental triggers that are difficult to replicate in the confines of an aquarium. Additionally, sexing rope fish is nearly impossible based on external characteristics alone, making it difficult to even obtain a compatible breeding pair.

In the wild, rope fish breeding is believed to occur during the rainy season when flooded conditions create optimal environmental cues. Males likely engage in courtship displays to attract females, followed by spawning in vegetated areas where eggs can attach to plants and debris. The eggs are adhesive and hatch into larvae that undergo a metamorphosis similar to that of amphibians, with the young initially possessing external gills before developing the adult characteristics.

For aquarists attempting to breed rope fish, the first challenge is obtaining a confirmed male and female. This typically requires purchasing a group of juveniles and raising them together, hoping that nature takes its course as they mature. A very large tank of at least 125 gallons is recommended for group housing, with abundant vegetation, driftwood, and caves to provide spawning sites and territorial boundaries.

Simulating rainy season conditions may help trigger spawning behavior. This involves increasing water changes with slightly cooler water to mimic seasonal flooding, increasing feeding with high-quality foods, and extending the photoperiod to simulate longer days. While these techniques have worked for some related species, success with rope fish specifically remains elusive for the vast majority of keepers.

If spawning does occur, the parents should be removed or the eggs carefully collected and transferred to a separate rearing tank, as rope fish are not known to provide parental care and may consume their own eggs. The eggs hatch in approximately one to two weeks, depending on temperature, and the fry require microscopic food such as infusoria and newly hatched brine shrimp for their first few weeks of life.

Health Issues and Disease Prevention

Rope fish are generally hardy and disease-resistant when provided with proper care, but they are susceptible to several health issues that aquarists should be aware of. Their unique physiology, including the ability to breathe air and their thick scale covering, provides some protection against common fish diseases, but they are not immune to the problems that can affect any aquarium inhabitant.

Bacterial infections are perhaps the most common health issue affecting rope fish, often manifesting as reddened areas on the skin, fin deterioration, or open sores. These infections typically occur when water quality deteriorates or when the fish experience stress from poor conditions, aggression, or improper handling. Maintaining pristine water quality and avoiding sudden changes in temperature or chemistry are the best preventive measures.

Parasitic infections such as ich and various worms can affect rope fish, though their thick scales provide some natural protection. Signs of parasitic infection include scratching against objects, rapid breathing, visible spots or worms on the body, and lethargy. Because rope fish are scaleless in the sense that their scales are embedded deeply and do not provide the same protection as typical fish scales, some medications that are safe for scaled fish may be harmful to rope fish. Always research treatments carefully and consider consulting with a veterinarian experienced in fish medicine.

Fungal infections can occur if rope fish experience skin damage from rough handling, poor water conditions, or aggressive encounters with tank mates. Fungal growth appears as cotton-like patches on the skin or fins and requires prompt treatment with appropriate antifungal medications. Prevention through proper tank maintenance and careful handling is always preferable to treatment.

Respiratory issues may occur if rope fish are unable to access the water surface due to overcrowding, floating plants that block their path, or aggressive tank mates that prevent them from reaching the top. Signs of respiratory distress include frequent gulping at the surface, lethargy, and hanging near the water line. Ensuring unobstructed access to the surface and maintaining adequate oxygen levels in the water can prevent these issues.

Quarantine new rope fish for at least four weeks before introducing them to a community tank to prevent the introduction of diseases. During quarantine, observe the fish carefully for any signs of illness and treat promptly if problems arise. Regular observation of your rope fish during evening feeding times allows you to catch health issues early, when they are most treatable.

Living Fossils: The Ancient Polypteridae Family

Rope Fish belong to the family Polypteridae, one of the oldest lineages of ray-finned fish on Earth. Fossil evidence places the Polypteridae at roughly 250 million years old, meaning these fish predate the dinosaurs. Understanding their ancient biology explains many of the “weird” things about keeping them.

What makes them primitive:

• Lungs, not just a swim bladder — Rope Fish have paired ventral lungs that are homologous to the lungs of terrestrial vertebrates, not a modified swim bladder like most fish. They must breathe air to survive; a rope fish that cannot reach the surface will drown.
• Ganoid scales — Their thick, diamond-shaped scales are made of ganoine (a type of enamel) over bone, the same scale type found in ancient fish fossils. These armor-like scales provide excellent protection but make them heavy and inflexible compared to modern fish.
• Pectoral fin structure — Their pectoral fins have a fleshy, lobe-like base with an internal skeleton similar to the limbs of early tetrapods. This structure lets them “walk” along the substrate and even across land.
• Spiral valve intestine — Like sharks and rays, rope fish retain a spiral valve in their intestine — a primitive digestive structure that most modern bony fish have lost.

Their closest relatives — The Polypteridae family contains two genera: Polypterus (bichirs, ~14 species) and Erpetoichthys (rope fish, 1 species). The Rope Fish is the only member of its genus and the only elongated species in the family. All other Polypterids have a more conventional fish body shape. Bichirs make excellent tankmates for rope fish because they share nearly identical care requirements.

External gills in juveniles — Young rope fish (and young bichirs) develop feathery external gills that look similar to those of amphibian larvae. These gills are typically reabsorbed as the fish matures, though traces may remain in some adults. This feature is another link to the ancient transition between aquatic and terrestrial life.

The Complete Escape Prevention Guide

No discussion of Rope Fish care is complete without addressing their legendary escape abilities. More rope fish die from escaping their tanks than from any disease. This is not an exaggeration — experienced keepers consistently report escapes as the number one cause of rope fish death.

Why they escape:

• They are genetically programmed to move between water bodies during rainy seasons
• Deteriorating water quality triggers their instinct to find better habitat
• Low oxygen levels drive them to seek new water sources
• They are naturally curious and will investigate any opening
• New fish are especially prone to escape during their first few weeks as they explore unfamiliar territory

What they can do:

• Flatten their body to squeeze through gaps as narrow as the diameter of a pencil
• Push up hinged lids and loose glass canopies with surprising strength
• Climb up filter intakes, airline tubing, and heater cords to reach openings
• Survive outside water for hours if their skin stays moist (their lungs allow air breathing)
• Travel several feet across a floor to find another water source (or not)

The complete escape-proofing checklist:

1. Glass canopy with no gaps — every opening for equipment must be sealed with foam, filter floss, or custom-cut plastic
2. Seal the filter opening — cut a piece of craft mesh or sponge to fit around the filter intake/outflow where it enters the tank
3. Seal the heater cord entry — use aquarium-safe silicone or foam tape
4. Seal airline tubing entry points — even a gap around an airline is enough
5. Weight the lid — place a book or weight on top of the canopy; rope fish can push up light lids
6. Check after every maintenance session — the most common escape time is right after a water change when the lid has been removed and replaced imperfectly
7. Tape mesh over any overflow boxes if using a sump system

If your rope fish escapes: Pick it up gently (they’re surprisingly strong and will thrash), place it back in the tank, and add a dose of stress coat. If the skin is still moist and the fish hasn’t been out more than a few hours, survival chances are good. Monitor for fungal infection over the following week, as skin damage from drying is common.

Rope Fish vs. Bichirs: Choosing Your Polypterid

Since rope fish and bichirs are closely related and often kept together, many hobbyists wonder which to choose or whether they can be mixed. Here’s how they compare.

Feature	Rope Fish	Senegal Bichir	Ornate Bichir
Body shape	Long, eel-like	Stocky, cylindrical	Stocky, cylindrical
Adult size	12–16 inches	10–14 inches	18–24 inches
Escape risk	Extreme	High	Moderate
Aggression	Very low	Low-moderate	Moderate
Activity level	Moderate (nocturnal)	Low-moderate	Low
Feeding difficulty	Moderate (poor eyesight)	Easy (eager feeders)	Easy
Price range	$15–30	$10–25	$30–60
Minimum tank	55 gal (75 recommended)	55 gal (75 recommended)	75 gal (125 recommended)
Availability	Common	Very common	Moderate

Mixing rope fish and bichirs — They coexist peacefully in most cases, sharing similar water requirements and nocturnal habits. The main concern is size difference: a large Ornate Bichir could potentially eat a small rope fish. Match sizes carefully, and ensure each fish has its own hiding spot. Both species need the same escape-proofing measures.

Best beginner Polypterid — The Senegal Bichir is the most forgiving for beginners: it’s hardier, less escape-prone than rope fish, and an eager feeder. Rope fish are best for aquarists who have already escape-proofed their setup and are comfortable with target feeding.

Tips for Success

Success with rope fish requires understanding and accommodating their unique needs and behaviors. First and foremost, invest in the absolute best lid you can find or build, and then add additional security measures. These fish can flatten their bodies to squeeze through incredibly small gaps, and they have been known to push up loose-fitting lids with surprising strength. The heartbreak of finding a dried rope fish on the floor is completely avoidable with proper precautions.

Create a viewing schedule that allows you to observe your rope fish during their active hours. Install dim moonlighting or blue LED lights that can be used after the main aquarium lights turn off, allowing you to watch their fascinating nocturnal behaviors without disturbing their natural rhythms. Many aquarists report that rope fish become more active and visible once they become accustomed to dim evening observation.

Feed a varied diet rich in protein, and do not be discouraged if your rope fish initially refuses prepared foods. These fish have individual preferences, and some may take months to accept pellets or wafers. Continue offering a mix of frozen and live foods while gradually introducing new items. Patience and persistence typically pay off, and a well-fed rope fish is a healthy, active rope fish.

Maintain excellent water quality through regular maintenance, robust filtration, and appropriate stocking levels. Remember that rope fish are long-lived animals that can survive for 15 to 20 years with proper care. The time and effort invested in creating and maintaining their habitat will be rewarded with decades of fascinating observations and interactions with these living fossils.

Finally, educate yourself about the commitment involved in keeping rope fish. Their long lifespan means that acquiring one is a serious responsibility that may span many years or even decades. Ensure that you have stable living arrangements, the financial resources for proper care, and a plan for the fish’s long-term welfare before bringing one home. These remarkable creatures deserve dedicated keepers who understand and respect their unique nature.

Frequently Asked Questions

How big do rope fish get? Rope fish typically reach lengths of 12 to 16 inches in home aquariums, though exceptional specimens may grow slightly larger in optimal conditions with excellent nutrition and ample space.

Can rope fish live with other fish? Rope fish can coexist with large, peaceful fish that are too big to be eaten, such as bichirs, large catfish, and certain cichlids. However, they will consume any fish small enough to fit in their mouths.

Do rope fish need to breathe air? Yes, rope fish possess modified lungs in addition to gills and must have access to the water surface to breathe atmospheric air. This adaptation allows them to survive in oxygen-poor waters but requires unobstructed swimming space to reach the surface.

Are rope fish aggressive? Rope fish are generally peaceful toward appropriately-sized tank mates but are predatory toward small fish and invertebrates. They are not typically aggressive in the sense of actively attacking other fish.

How long do rope fish live? With proper care, rope fish can live 15 to 20 years in captivity, and some individuals have been reported to live even longer. Their longevity makes them a significant long-term commitment.

What size tank does a rope fish need? A minimum of 55 gallons is required for a single adult rope fish, with 75 gallons or larger strongly recommended. Length is more important than height, as these fish primarily crawl along the bottom.

Do rope fish need a heater? Yes, rope fish require tropical temperatures between 72 and 82 degrees Fahrenheit, necessitating the use of an aquarium heater in most homes.

Can rope fish climb out of tanks? Absolutely, and they are notorious for doing so. Rope fish are excellent escape artists that can squeeze through tiny gaps and even push up loose lids. A tight-fitting, secure cover is absolutely essential.

What do rope fish eat? Rope fish are carnivores that prefer meaty foods including bloodworms, shrimp, fish, and various worms. Some can be trained to accept high-quality carnivore pellets.

Are rope fish nocturnal? Yes, rope fish are primarily nocturnal and are most active during evening hours. They typically hide during the day and emerge to hunt and explore once the lights dim.

How can I tell if my rope fish is male or female? Sexing rope fish is extremely difficult and generally not possible based on external characteristics alone. The only reliable method is observing spawning behavior, which is rare in captivity.

Can I keep multiple rope fish together? Yes, multiple rope fish can be kept together successfully as long as the tank is large enough to provide adequate space and hiding spots for all individuals. They often display interesting social behaviors when kept in groups.

Do rope fish need plants in their tank? While not strictly necessary, plants can provide additional cover and help create a more natural environment. However, rope fish may uproot delicate plants with their crawling behavior, so hardy varieties or artificial plants are often better choices.

What water parameters do rope fish need? Rope fish prefer temperatures of 72-82°F, pH between 6.5 and 7.5, and soft to moderately hard water. They are adaptable but require stable conditions and excellent water quality.

Can rope fish be handled? Rope fish should not be handled unnecessarily as this can stress them and damage their protective slime coating. If handling is required for tank maintenance or medical treatment, use wet hands and work quickly.

Do rope fish make good pets for beginners? Rope fish are generally considered intermediate-level pets due to their specific tank requirements, predatory nature, and long lifespan. They are not recommended for absolute beginners.

How often should I feed my rope fish? Adult rope fish should be fed three to four times per week, while growing juveniles may require daily feedings. Offer as much food as they can consume in a few minutes.

Can rope fish survive without a filter? While rope fish can breathe air and survive in low-oxygen conditions, they still require good water quality and should have adequate filtration to remove waste and maintain healthy conditions.

What substrate is best for rope fish? Soft sand is ideal for rope fish, as it protects their bellies during crawling and allows for natural burrowing behavior. Avoid sharp gravel that could cause injury.

Are rope fish legal to own? Rope fish are legal to own in most areas, though regulations vary by location. Always check local laws before purchasing, and never release any aquarium fish into the wild.

How do rope fish hunt? Rope fish hunt primarily using their excellent sense of smell rather than vision. They actively crawl along the bottom, flicking their nostrils to detect prey, then strike quickly when food is located.

Can rope fish live in ponds? In warm climates, rope fish can be kept in outdoor ponds during appropriate seasons, but they must be brought indoors when temperatures drop below their tolerance range. Secure pond covers are essential to prevent escapes.

Do rope fish have teeth? Rope fish have small teeth designed for gripping prey rather than tearing flesh. They typically swallow their food whole, which limits the size of prey they can consume to what fits in their mouths.

What should I do if my rope fish escapes? If you find your rope fish outside the tank, immediately return it to the water, supporting its body to prevent injury. Check for injuries and monitor closely, as survival rates depend on how long the fish was out of water and how quickly it was discovered.